In recent years, Chironico has emerged as one of the most popular destinations worldwide for spending fall weekends on excellent rock and beautiful boulders. While past concerns about "soft grades" may have overshadowed the beauty of the place, there is now a collective effort to reconcile diverse opinions on difficulties and focus on Chironico's main characteristic—the uniqueness of this magical area.
In 2010, Jon Glassberg published his video "The Swiss Account" (still available on YouTube and the LT11 website), featuring "Team America" comprising Carlo Traversi, Connor Griffith, and Jon himself. The film showcased numerous Ticino gems, including a young Adam Ondra and Dai Koyamada attempting Big Paw, 8B+, the sit start of Boogalagga (8B). Their efforts hinted that nothing in Chironico should be underestimated, despite the rumors surrounding the grades.
Giuliano Cameroni, settore US101, Big Kat 8B+, credits Patricio Munari
Chironico is situated in Italian Switzerland, not far from Faido and very close to Cresciano. Both areas complement each other not just on the map but also seasonally. Chironico is ideal for fall and spring climbing, offering options in both shaded and sunny areas. In colder temperatures, climbers gravitate towards Cresciano.
Compared to Cresciano's expansive single area, Chironico features numerous sectors (37 sectors listed in the guidebook) spread across Nivo and Altirolo. A car is essential for navigating between them. In addition to the main area, isolated boulders like Dr. Med Dent, Teamwork, and Vitruvian Man's roof can be found. Despite the variety, Chironico remains cohesive, with each sector offering enough boulders to immerse climbers in a specific area for an entire day.
The rock in Chironico is Swiss granitic gneiss, providing a rough texture for excellent grip. Climbers encounter diverse shapes and styles, from slabs and roofs to overhangs, flat holds, crimps, and arêtes. The landings are often good, approaches short, and paths comfortable—making Chironico a family-friendly destination.
Concerns about Chironico's potential closure prompted local climbers to remind visitors that parking in unmarked areas is on private land and camping is prohibited. Fires are strictly forbidden.
Centrale
As the name suggests, Centrale serves as a "tactical" base for exploring surrounding sectors. It features classic boulders like Les Doigts Verts, Rah Plats Plats, and Serre Moi Fort. While legendary boulders often gain attention, Centrale offers a range of boulders suitable for all levels. The sector is family-friendly, attracting climbers of varying abilities with its quality rock and beautiful lines.
El Seta, settore centrale, Kanizsa 6C, Credits Markus Ixmeier
Paese
Paese represents the area closer to Chironico center, surrounded by smaller but impressive sectors. Climbers transition seamlessly from Paese to Deliverance and then to Boogalagga. Some experience is required for crashpad placement and spotting due to less flat landings. Classic sectors in Paese include Komilator and Souvenir, offering a variety of lines for different skill levels.
Petra Dvorak, settore Paese, The Aviator 6C+, credits Markus Ixmeier
Boogalagga
Known for its super hard 8B boulder, Boogalagga offers enjoyment for climbers of all levels. With over 50 lines ranging from 6A to 6C+, it caters to a wide audience. Stronger climbers seeking difficulties from 8A and above will find legendary lines, including Confession of a Crap Artist (8A) and the iconic Boogalagga (8B) and its sit start, Big Paw (8C).
Gina Raihani, settore Boogalagga, Il Brillo Parlante 7B+7C, photo credits Patricio Munari
Nivo Bassa
Ideal for climbers around 6C, Nivo Bassa features easy and intermediate lines for unforgettable spring and autumn days. Compared to Centrale, the landings require more experience in surface setting and spotting. The shaded woods provide optimal conditions in early autumn or late spring. The guidebook highlights many intermediate boulders, making Nivo Bassa and Nivo Alta essential for climbers below 7A.
Schattental
Schattental, along with Schattental Fiume and Fiume Ticino, offers a quieter option compared to busier sectors. Despite its smaller size, it features both classic and lesser-known lines, including 8C masterpieces and 5B boulders. Climbing here depends on the river's water flow, so checking conditions before visiting is crucial. Strong climbers often combine a visit to Schattental with attempts on the famous La Soucoupe boulder.
Chironico Guidebook Updates
The Chironico guidebook, part of the Ticino Boulder series, is a result of extensive work by local and international climbers. Claudio Cameroni, Roberto Grizzi, and Renzo Lodi organized and classified material, providing advice on unmissable lines, parking, boulder geolocalizations, and detailed sector descriptions. A new edition, featuring almost 30 new lines and the first Swiss 9A boulder, "Alphane" in Nivo Alta sector, will be available soon. The guidebook includes an alphabetical list of lines from 5 to 9A for easy reference.
You can find the Chironico guidebook on this page.