Together with the arrival of the longer and milder days typical of spring, many climbers take the opportunity to check their climbing kit, cleaning the hardware that has been unused for a few months, or replacing what is worn out.
Also climbing shoes obviously deserve much of our attention: we know that they are crucial to enjoy a day on the rock. If you are thinking of enriching your kit of climbing shoes with a new model, maybe specific for sport climbing routes, you are in the right place!
For this spring 2024 we have chosen five very popular models, which have already supported a huge number of climbers in the crags around the world. We have compared them, highlighting the strengths of each model.
Let’s start with the iconic Miura VS of La Sportiva, which bring up - in the classic version - the symbolic yellow and black colors of the Italian brand based in Trento. The Miura VS are unbeatable in precision at the tip, especially when you need to feel even the smallest micro edges so typical of limestone. Their full sole construction makes them perfect for all vertical uses, where a little extra support and stiffness can help you push harder on the front of the foot. La Sportiva Miura are made of leather, a material that has the property of shaping around your foot immediately after the first use, giving you a pleasant feeling of wrapping. Do not forget that they are also highly arched and performing: perfect for intermediate and advanced climbers who prefer a precise climbing style and maximum performance.
Let’s move on to Shaman by Evolv, of which we immediately notice the extremely aggressive shape and the use of the half-sole: they are high-level shoes, of which there also is a "pro" counterpart especially recommended for competitions. Shamans are made of synthetic materials: besides having a sustained stiffness, they will also maintain their shape longer. Their peculiarity lies in the innovative construction: from the midsole - that helps to keep the shoe stable - to the VTR, which uses tires of different thickness in the various points of the shoe, the Shaman enclose the best of Evolv technologies. These shoes are particularly appreciated by those climbers who often switch from a climbing style to another, maybe alternating days on the cliff with bouldering sessions.
Natural evolution of Instinct VS SHOE, the VSR are less rigid than the previous version and they have an optimal balance between all their parts. The precise heel, the sensitive toe and the half-sole, that allows you to adapt the foot even on less sharp supports, help create a model of multipurpose shoes and that behaves excellently in many different situations.
The Instinct VSR are made of microfiber, with a single Velcro fastening, and they are part of the family of shoes that SCARPA dedicates to "sport performance": you will see them in very demanding sport climbing routes as well as in the most important competitions: The SCARPA Instinct VSR are always a certainty and they meet all the needs of advanced climbers who prefer synthetic materials combined with the sole Vibram XS Grip 2.
If you are looking for a responsive shoe model that has the perfect balance between a very structured construction and a very soft one, Indalo by Tenaya could give you great satisfaction. The combination of the different materials used for this model ensures a comfortable and pleasant fit, which perfectly fits the shape of your foot without creating pressure points. In addition, thanks to the cotton inserts, they are highly breathable and perfect for indoor use or on hot days. Indalo have a perfect balance between rigidity, sensitivity and reliability even on the flakiest supports: try them if you climb often on different types of rock and with different climbing styles.
If you are fond of a more classic model with laces, we recommend the Pantera 2.0 of Wild Climb. Their main playgrounds are the plates and slightly overhanging walls, where technical and precise shoes are required. This model combines the properties of synthetic materials, which retain their performance unchanged over time, to the construction with a rigid sole and a medium stiffness. It is therefore a structured model that will give you excellent support on the most challenging vertical walls. The closure - as we said with laces - allows you a millimeter adjustment of the shoe around the foot, allowing you to have a high sensitivity especially on the toe. The Wild Climb Pantera 2.0, also characterized by a new graphic, are highly recommended for those who love the great challenges on slabs.