Complete Guide to Trad Climbing Gear
Trad climbing is one of the most historical forms of climbing, shaped over the years by different approaches, gear, and ethical guidelines. In its most recent form—since the introduction and exclusive use of mobile protection—it has also been called "Clean Climbing," emphasizing the low-impact nature of this style, which avoids damaging or leaving traces on the rock.
Although there are many variations on this theme, such as routes that lie somewhere between trad and sport climbing, in this article we will refer to trad climbing as a style of ascent that relies solely on nuts and cams. Unlike sport climbing, where climber safety is prioritized, trad climbing embodies a spirit of adventure and mental challenge that is currently attracting a motivated new audience.
Let's explore how to assemble a basic kit for a day of trad climbing!
Rope
For trad climbing, you'll need a single rope, identified by the symbol "1" on its label. The thickness and length of the rope will vary depending on the type of belay device and the route's length. Typically, a 60 or 70-meter rope will suffice for most situations, but it's crucial to consult the route's topo beforehand. While each route has its own characteristics, we recommend opting for a water-repellent rope, which is more resistant to wear and abrasion, for most outdoor conditions.
If the route you're climbing follows a crack with a zig-zag pattern, it may be wise to use two half ropes. This technique helps reduce rope drag from sharp angles, allowing for smoother, faster climbing. However, it’s important to master the technique of climbing with half ropes, especially on routes with mobile protection. Additionally, half ropes are often thinner, which requires a compatible belay device.
Belay Device
In most trad climbing situations, tubular belay devices are the preferred option. These devices are compact, lightweight, compatible with most single rope diameters, and facilitate dynamic belaying. Their ability to "soften" a fall makes them ideal for trad, as they reduce stress on the protection compared to assisted-braking belay devices. In recent years, tubular devices have evolved with the addition of "guide mode" features, which are invaluable for multi-pitch routes.
For single-pitch routes with strong, "bombproof" protection placements, you can use an assisted-braking belay device, just as you would for other single-pitch climbs. Be mindful to soften the fall to avoid placing too much force on the gear, and manage your partner's ascent with care. Regardless of the belay device you choose, always ensure it's compatible with both the rope and the belay carabiner.
Harness
Choosing a harness for trad climbing follows the same basic rules as any other vertical activity. You'll want to decide between fixed or adjustable leg loops based on the season. If you climb in varied weather conditions, such as both summer and winter, adjustable leg loops might be more versatile. For more consistent conditions, fixed leg loops could suffice.
What really matters in trad is the number of gear loops on the harness. You need enough loops to organize and quickly access your gear. Since you’ll be carrying a significant amount of equipment, a padded, ergonomic harness will help distribute the weight evenly and make it more comfortable to climb.
Climbing Shoes
Trad climbing shoes should be comfortable and not too aggressive, as you’ll likely wear them for extended periods. The type of trad climbing you're doing—single pitch or multi-pitch—can influence your choice. Some shoes are designed for crack climbing, with flat, symmetrical soles and ankle protection. A good starting point for trad shoes would be "all-round" models, with your personal preferences and experience guiding you toward a more specific choice over time.
Helmet
There aren't any specific requirements for a trad helmet beyond those for standard climbing or mountaineering helmets. However, given the increased risk of falls on mobile protection, it’s worth considering helmets certified for Top and Side Protection.
Nuts
Nuts are a fundamental part of trad climbing gear. They come in various sizes and colors. A set of 10 to 12 nuts will be sufficient for your first experiences. Since trad is often learned by climbing second, you won’t need an extensive rack initially, but make sure you have a Nut Key clipped to your harness with a loop sling for removing gear.
Friends
Cams are reliable and essential for certain types of cracks where nuts won’t work. Unlike nuts, which depend on a mechanical interlocking placement, cams create friction against the rock through an expanding mechanism. For a beginner's rack, four to five cams of different sizes should be enough.
Carabiners
A solid set of carabiners is indispensable. In addition to lightweight carabiners to organize your gear, you’ll need three or four screw-lock carabiners, ideal for setting up belays or rappelling. Make sure you also have a belay carabiner compatible with your belay device.
Sling and cords
A variety of slings in different lengths (60 to 120 cm) is highly useful. Slings are vital for setting up anchors and can serve as emergency protection when you can sling them around natural features on the rock.
Quickdraws
Trad quickdraws differ from sport climbing sets. They have longer slings (16 cm or more) and are made of lighter materials. The longer slings allow for greater flexibility when the protection isn't in a straight line, reducing rope drag and the risk of dislodging gear.
Chalk
A good supply of chalk is a trad climber’s best friend, especially in hot or humid conditions. Whether you prefer fine powder, chunks, or blocks, the key is to always have your chalk bag clipped to your harness for easy access when you need it most.
Finger Tape
Trad climbing often involves jamming your hands and fists into cracks, so having finger tape to protect your skin can be a game changer. Even if your route doesn’t feature big cracks, carrying some finger tape can still be useful in many scenarios.