Finale Ligure is undoubtedly one of the most popular destinations in north-western Italy for fans of sport climbing, especially in winter. For those who do not live too far away and have the opportunity to go there, Finale is the place to be privileged even on the coldest days, with the guarantee of finding an absolutely exceptional rock. Beyond the incredible rock, the perfect exposure in winter and the atmosphere that reigns in Finalborgo, those who come here to climb can test themselves on legendary routes of rare beauty. There are of course other activities and initiatives related to climbing, such as the solidarity event Finale For Nepal that every year attracts boulderers from all over Northern Italy.
Finale Ligure offers so many climbing options that choosing the perfect crag for your weekend getaway might be challenging, especially for first-timers! The climbing guidebooks of Finale (Vertical Life and Versante Sud) are all very detailed and accurate, but we’ve thought to share a list of five easily accessible and most popular crags. That way, there will always be people around if you’ll need any kind of information and you will be able to find routes suitable for all levels, especially easy and intermediate. The ideal destinations for your first trips to Liguria! Most of these crags comprise several sectors: here you will find the classics, but if you venture a little further you will always find less crowded and just as beautiful sectors.
Finalmarina is filled every year with colors and climbers at Finale For Nepal.
The type of rock
The rock, as we said, is breathtaking. The limestone is well worked with drops and holes, even if in some places it is affected by the consequences of the passage of thousands of climbers who have come to try these routes since the 80s. Its structures often take the shape of very worked caves, with sockets that offer difficulty accessible even in the steep overhang or roof. Particularly characteristic is the sector of the Hive, where we find Hyaena, the historic masterpiece of Andrea Gallo known worldwide.
Even today Hyaena is a must for any climber who wants to add a fundamental repetition to a high level Curriculum. The Alveare sector, one of the southernmost of all, summarizes the characteristics of many streets of Finale: short, with movements of blocks, holes and holds reduced to the essentials. All those who love the block routes, with short and intense sections, will be spoiled for choice among the many routes - medium/ high - to try.
The Grotta dell'Edera, example of one of the many overhanging structures or roof that we can find in Finale Ligure. Photo by Sylvain Mauroux, courtesy of Unsplash.
Whatever your favorite style of climbing, in Finale Ligure you will always find beautiful and high quality routes: here are the five cliffs that we have selected for you.
Rocca di Perti
Rocca di Perti is not only one of the largest crags of Finale but also one of the most popular: the first sectors are extremely easy to access, the rock conditions are optimal, and the routes are suitable for everyone! The first wall you will face is called “Parete delle Gemme”, with lots of routes in the sixth-grade range. If you’re planning to go there on Sundays, we recommend getting there early, in order to find a parking spot. It gets crowded really fast! The crag is mostly exposed to the sun, which makes it perfect for winter and mid-season climbing sections. Nevertheless, each sector offers slightly different exposures. For example, you can climb on the Grotto and Versante Nord sectors even on hotter days.
The junction between Wall of the Gems and Plaque of the Oasis at the Rocca di Perti
Boragni
The Boragni crag is perfect when the heat starts to strike. It’s very easily accessible, the approach takes less than fifteen minutes. This crag also comprises several sectors: we suggest visiting Bastionata, on the left, for its vertical, pocketed pitches on excellent rock, all raging between fifth and sixth grade.
Rian Cornei
Rian Cornei is a crag with lots of sectors, offering all sorts of climbing styles: ranging from vertical walls to overhangs and tiny caves, here you can have a taste of everything. One of the most beautiful and appreciated sectors is without a doubt Italsider, with its overhanging and vertical walls. The routes are mainly very physical, even the sorter or the easier ones. If you prefer a more technical style with a focus on balance, we recommend the central sector Placconata, with about forty routes rating up to 7a on superb slabs. Last but not least, Falesia del Silenzio is a crag well protected from the wind, with routes of any difficulty on slabs or slightly overhanging walls. It’s one of the most beautiful and wild sectors of Finale.
Monte Cucco
Who’s never heard of Monte Cucco? This crag represents the history of sport climbing in Finale Ligure from its very beginning all the way to nowadays. Here you will find the most iconic routes of the area. Torre is a classic sector, with its historic routes on vertical walls with pockets, but unfortunately, the rock here is not always in the best condition. There are routes suitable for everyone, from beginners who would like to challenge themselves on some easy problems to expert climbers. We would recommend this sector to climbers who range between 6b and 6c grades.
Rocca di Corno
When it’s cold and windy, you will always find some climbers looking for protection in Rocca di Corno, another historical crag. The climbing style here is quite old-school, with technical and dynamic movements on pillars and dihedrals. You can also find longer routes, very appreciated during the winter. The Futura sector is one of the newest ones, with very technical slabs but also overhangs and dihedrals.
Courtesy of Petzl Distribution - credits to Pietro Bagnara and Lorenzo Morandini, climber Wafaa Aimar al Bric Pianarella
Access and restrictions
Obviously, the many positive aspects of Finale sometimes lead to an influx in some sectors and congested parking: an undeniable advice is to get to the sectors early in order to find parking more easily. The approach paths are often pleasant walks in the woods, but not all are practicable for those with strollers in tow or very small children: always consult the guide before adventuring!
Access to some of the sectors mentioned in this article might be limited during nesting season. Make sure to check the local climbing guidebooks before planning your trips! We recommend consulting a guidebook also to find the approach paths, extra detailed information, and more climbing options. Take a look at our Oliunìd shop, where you can choose between Versante Sud and Vertical Life guidebooks!
Where to sleep?
Some campsites open all year round make life easy even for those without a camper or van. But for those who want a minimum of extra comfort, especially in winter, there are plenty of choices between bed nad breakfast and farmhouses, such as Ca' di Alice. Offering affordable rooms and generous breakfasts, it is the classic meeting place for climbers who descend for example from the Bric Grigio or the Cathedral, whose access path passes right in front of the inn. Stopping here for an aperitif or a refreshing snack is a must!
The beautiful Terreross ecamping, open all year round with bar and pizzeria to refresh yourself with typical home-made products!
Foto di copertina: per gentile concessione di Petzl Distribution - credits to Pietro Bagnara e Lorenzo Morandini, climber Wafaa Aimar al Bric Pianarella