How to choose climbing shoes for multipitch climbing

Long routes represent for many the origin of climbing but also the "end goal", managing to combine technical skill with the environment and making the outdoor day even more complete and decidedly on another level. In this type of climbing, the comfort of the shoes is the number one priority, occasionally sacrificing some extreme performance: however, shoes for long routes should not be confused with shoes for beginners. If we think of the great routes in the Dolomites, Verdon or Ratikon, we can imagine how many models can synthesize precision and comfort even for extreme levels.

 

When we talk about climbing shoes, often the term "comfort" refers level of "aggressiveness": a very aggressive shoe will be strongly curved, with a very pointed profile and a foot bed increasingly narrow towards the tip. Nothing that is strictly necessary for a long route. In fact, we will look for a less model, possibly with a flat and slightly asymmetric tip.

 

A generally sturdy shoe with a good sole (such as the La Sportiva FriXion © high 5 mm) guarantees greater durability over time, while we can choose according to personal preferences also based on the level of experience regarding stiffness. If the shoes are very stiff, they will give us better support to the arch of the foot, making our calves less tired during the day; the sensitivity that we will have on small supports and the ability to spread the foot in adhesion will be slightly reduced compared to a softer model.

 

Some models that represent a classic among the most appreciated shoes for long routes are the SCARPA Generator Mid, Katana Strap and the Mythos by La Sportiva and the Maestro by Scarpa. In general, these are shoes with lace-up closure for optimal and very precise fitting; among these, you can prefer those in leather for exceptional breathability, or those in synthetic materials for a more technical and durable material. If you want to delve into the characteristics of shoes for an even more targeted choice, take a look at our previous post.