Italian alpine guide Andrea Basso will help us understand the differences between sports, trad, and alpine climbing. This will be the first of a series of articles on multi-pitch climbing safety, gear, knots, and techniques. But let’s start from the beginning: what is multi-pitch climbing?
What do we talk about when we talk about multi-pitch routes? Are there different types?
At the crag, we climb mostly on single-pitch routes. Starting from the ground, we reach a 30 or 40-meter high anchor and shortly after our partner belays us down. When we climb one pitch after another, reaching further heights, that is what multi-pitch climbing is. Safety measures, rope management, and even the ropes used are very different in this case, and climbers must familiarize themselves with all gear and techniques before making an attempt.
As for multi-pitch route types, the main difference lies between multi-pitch sports routes and alpine or trad routes. There isn’t always a net distinction between alpine and trad routes: they sometimes overlap. In this case, we talk about mixed routes. Sports multi-pitch routes are bolted with fixed protections and anchors (either expansion or chemical ones). In this case the distance between bolts does not exceed three or four meters. In alpine multi-pitch climbing, there are no bolts but it’s possible to find some pitons driven into a crack or seam in the wall. In this case, climbers must bring and place their own protection gear such as nuts and friends.
Talking about sports multi-pitch routes– what are the basic techniques we must learn before climbing?
First of all, we need to know how to handle ropes, whether we are using a single rope or a pair of half ropes. Choosing and being comfortable with our belay device is also crucial. Then, we have to know how to build an anchor and safely belay from above. It’s also important to know how to rappel down, as we could always find ourselves in a situation where it’s safer to go down (for example, in case of bad weather).
As for alpine multi-pitch routes, how much extra gear do we need?
In alpine multi-pitch climbing, it’s very important to read the route descriptions very carefully to learn the route conditions and how much protection is in place. That’s how we can comfortably choose what extra protection gear we need. To list a few additional tools and gear: a hammer, pitons, friends, a set of nuts, 80 cm slings, a 120 cm and a 180 cm one, quickdraws, a belay device, a descender plate, small and large carabiners.
From a mindset point of view, are we talking about completely different sports? Or can they be comparable after mastering all techniques?
This would require a long and articulated answer. All itineraries have different features and levels of difficulty. Overall, I believe both types of climbing require a certain level of technical knowledge and skills, and climbers must be aware of what they are doing. Usually, climbers start on single pitches. Then they try some sports multi-pitch routes, and later move on to alpine multi-pitch routes. To make this learning process easier, we now have a vast variety of sports or mixed multi-pitch routes. In my opinion, some of these new routes are excessively protected, and climbers don’t really have a chance to grow their alpine skills.
Disclaimer: The suggestions listed in all climbing articles are not to be considered exhaustive. The intent is uniquely informative, therefore they do not account for professional advice. Please seek help from professional trainers and alpine guides for your first climbing experiences. Make sure to complete a climbing course before climbing outdoors on your own.
This article is part of a series on climbing safety measures.
Cover photo: Edelrid brandoroom Allgaeu Schreiber Poetter
