Fontainebleau or « Bleau », as locals call it, is a must see place for boulderers coming from all over the world. It is weel-known for its sandstone "grès" rock and for the typical climbing style you can find only here. There are also a lot of circuits and easy boulders that allow beginner climbers to become familiar with this climbing style a step at a time.
Sometimes it could be difficult to navigate across the many sectors (more than 200!) that are scattered in the forest, both if you are discovering the bouldering world for the first time and if you are an experienced climber. The sectors' names can often be also quite awkward such as: Diplodocus, Cul-de-chien, Eléphant, la Gorge aux châts, just to name a few. If you are just passing by Paris area, and you want to take an opportunity to have a look at the cradle of bouldering, or even if you are thinking about moving here your first steps into boyldering, you will be in the need of some guidelines.
If you want to select the best sector to suit your needs and to discover the wonders of Fontainebleau, you'll want to be equipped with the guidebooks: 5 + 6 de Bart Van Raaij - Volume 1 e Volume 2. Here you can find a lot of infos on low and intermediate levels boulders such as First Ascents, their geolocalization and curiosities.
NeuroToxine Droite, 6B, Apremont
The historical Fontainebleau forest hosts innumerable sectors which are located within a radius of several kilometres: to move from one sector to another - obviously far from each other - you have no choice but to move by car, thus realizing how big this area is. In order to avoid too much driving, it is crucial to select in advance the main sectors you want to visit, thus to enjoy your day and don't think about anything but climbing.
In Fontainebleau there are four main areas incorporating a lot of littler sectors. In effects hey are the heart of the forest as regards for climbing: here the climbing scene as we know it today has grown and have been developed by some of the strongest boulderers ever. These sectors are Cuvier, Apremont, Franchard and the well-known Trois-Pignons. Here you can find a huge quantity of boulders for any level, as well as astonishing lines and a unique atmosphere.
Big Golden 7C+, Rempart
Trois Pignons – La Canche aux Merciers
It is located between Milly-la-forêt and Arbonne-la-forêt, that is inside the Trois Pignon sector. Here you will find tons of boulders for any level; more than this there are also a lot of circuits of different colors: yellow, orange, blu and red. There also are a lot of difficult lines which are independent from the circuits: believe us, they will give a hard time even to the more experienced climbers. Generally speaking, they are quite high and require technical movements, strength and flexibility. You can easily reach this sector by using as a reference the parking of "La Canche aux Merciers". For all those climbers who want to eat well after a day at the boulders, we recommend "La Forêt" restaurant: you will find here an excellent traditional French cuisine and unbeatable local specialities.
Dégaine et Gaine 6C+, La Canche aux Merciers
Trois Pignons – Rocher aux Sabots
We are again within the Trois Pignons sector but more to the west, more or less where we can find the curious and famous sands of Cul-de-Chien, the most characteristic area of the forest. You can easily reach this sector from the "Roche aux Sabots" parking. It is especially recommended for intermediate and high-level climbers due to its technical and physical lines. Here you can often measure yourself with dynamic movements which require good coordination skills. Here too, we can find some circuits of different colors such as green, yellow, orange, blu and red. One of the most famous and iconic lines of this area is « Sale gosse assis », whose First Ascent has been made by Ben Moon (7C+/8A).
Call for hikers and for all the athletes who want to stay fit: Fontainebleau has a great reputation also for its «25 bosses » circuit, a loop trail that makes the whole tour of Trois Pignons massif. It is renowned by hikers and joggers: this 14 km loop comes with an altitude difference of 800 metres and it can result challenging for beginners. If you want to stay here a few days, "la Musardière" camping is located close to these two sectors, slightly further north than Le Trois Pignons boulders. They have pitches for tents and mobil-homes, a refreshing open pool and a restaurant bar. If you want to have a walk, you can taste the home-made cuisine of Auberge d'Auvers Galant, just after Noisy-sur-Ecole.
Zen, 7A, Rocher aux Sabots
Cuvier sector – Rempart
Cuvier-Rempart is another famous sector in Fontainebleau; it is within Cuvier, a forest area with really high and impressive boulders. Generally speaking, they also are quite exposed and require a very physical climbing style. At the same time you can also find a wide variety of different difficulties and styles: not without reason it is universally recognised as a sector for every kind of climber. You can reach this sector from "Cuvier-Fontainebleau" parking.
This is an historical place where the "bleausards" have written important pages in climbing history. Since the beginning of 1900s this sector has seen the most famous names of the main players of this sport, who had a futuristic vision about climbing. Just to say one, it is in Cuvier-Rempart that Pierre Allain, alpinist and impressive climber was able to develop its first climbing shoes prototypes, by testing them on the mythical rock of « l'Angle Allain», one of the first 6A of the forest (it has been climbed for the first time in 1935 with a proposed degree of 5+). At the same time we can find here the historycal lines of « C’était Demain », the first 8A of the forest in 1984, such as « Fatman », the first 8B that goes back to 1993, both freed by Jacky Godoffe (the last of which has been vandalised). There also are extreme boulders such as the recent « Khéops », « Super Tanker », « Shiva » or again « Le dernier fléau ». Wandering among these boulders you will have the chanche to meet the most famous climbers in the world, who come here to try these astonishing lines. But this sector is not only famous for its popularity: it also is a place where beginners can have fun and take confidence with Fontainebleau climbing style. Here the first circuit has been established in 1947!
L'Angle Allain, 6A, Rempart
Cuvier Sector – Bas Cuvier
Located in the surroundings of Cuvier-Rempart, Bas Cuvier is a slightly less famous sector where you can have a lot of fun. It can suit beginner and intermediate climbers: generally speaking the boulders are not too so high as in Cuvier-Rempart, but the movements are really technical and always interesting. You can reach this sector from the "Cuvier-Fontainebleau" parking. This area as well is full in historical lines: here you can find «La Marie Rose», a line that dates back to 1946, freed by Pierre Allain and René Ferlet, the two most relevant pioneers in bouldering. It is one of the first lines opened here in Fontainebleau, and it is considered still today a classical line as well as the first 6A in Fontainebleau. At the same time «La Joker» has been freed for the first time in 1953 by the well known Robert Paragot, and it is considered the first 7A in Fontainebleau.
The different areas included in Cuvier sector are not too far from Chailly-en-Bière village and the famous Barbizon, un unmissable visit for everyone loving Impressionist painting. Here you will also find a lot of fine restaurants: among all we suggest you "Le Chalet du Moulin" or "Folie Barbizon".
La Picasso, 5, Cuvier
Secteur Apremont – Tous les sites
Apremont is another classic bouldering sector near Cuvier. You can easily reach the boulders which are located north of the parking lot « l'Allée des vaches » in Barbizon, or by leaving the car in « Platières d'Apremont ». They are particularly suitable for beginner and intermediate climbers: the boulders are never too high when compared to the ones you will find in other sectors and they allow you to have fun without having to worry about landngs. Here you'll get to experience the most typical Fontainebleau climbing movements: flat holds, nothing to be crimped and a high quality grés rock will make your day unique.
It is a sector which that makes you want to live an easy and relaxed climbing, enjoying everything from an outdoor day with your family or friends. As in most other sectors, here as well you can climb on different circuits whose difficulty is indicated by the color revealing a ever-increasing intensity. But note: some lines can result really demanding even if they are "graded" with a color you usually climb without any problem. Don't be discouraged by this: Fontainebleau climbing style is very specific: flat holds, slabs, cracks and mantles require an elegant movements and precise feet placements, very often on flat footholds.
« L'alchimiste » is one of the most famous Apremont lines. This mythical boulder has been freed by Marc le Ménestrel in 1996, with a suggested grade of 8B; sadly the holds have been vandalised. The line has been freed again by Nalle Hukkataival in 2015 (8B+). For all those climbers looking for a place where restore all the energies or to enjoy an aperitif, we suggest "La caverne des brigands" hotel, located near Apremont. Here you will have the opportunity to taste the wonders of traditional French cuisine in a cozy atmosphere, reminiscent of the mountain chalets.
Ménage à Déux assis, 6A+, Apremont
About Fontainebleau
Fontainebleau, internation climbing "lab", is a first class destination for all boulering passionates, and it includes a lot of high-quality sectors for any level. This is not an exhaustive list: the sector number is particluarly impressive in Fontainebleau region. We have selected this areas for the variety and quantity of interesting boulders and for the amazing environment you can climb in. Almost all climbers who have climbed here, and even the locals, love the sectors we have shown you in this post. If you are looking for more infos about these sectors or you would like to discover some more, we suggest you to have a look at 5 + 6 by Bart Van Raaij bookguides. Il volume 1 contains the more central sectors, whereasVolume 2,contains more infos about west, south and north sectors of the forest. You can also use the "5 + 6 7 + 8" app to localize the most remote boulders.
À Deux Doigts Du Bonheur, 7B+, Apremont
Gear and safety
It is always extremely important to climb safely and to respect the delicate environment that surrounds us. For this reason we advice you not to go bouldering alone; on the contrary it would be much better to go with friends and experienced climbers. A lot of crash pad, a correct evaluation of the landing zone and a proper placement of the pads can make the difference in a enjoyable climbing day.
Of course you will need good crash pad and climbing shoes, but also a tarp or sit start pad to clean your shoes before trying your boulder. At the same time you will need chalk and a brush to clean the holds before and after your attempt!
All photo credits to Bart van Raaij, 5+6 Volume 1, Volume 2 and 7+8.