Climbing a multi-pitch route, or a long route, requires a careful selection of gear that goes beyond personal preferences for rope diameter and length. While we may have little doubt when choosing a rope for single-pitch climbs at a crag, when selecting a rope for multi-pitch routes, we must already have the “playing field” in mind where we will be using it.
Technically, on a multi-pitch route, we can use single ropes (from 8.7 mm and up), half ropes, or twin ropes (generally between 7 and 8 mm). What changes are the techniques for progression and descent, the impact forces generated in case of a fall, and the factors related to the risk of abrasion and damage.
© Andrew Burr - Patagonia
Single Rope
Single ropes have progressively achieved thinner diameters without compromising the certification indicated by the number 1 on the label, which assures their suitability for use on crags and in the mountains. However, in our opinion, single ropes with a diameter of less than 9.5 mm require a slightly higher level of experience in crag climbing to ensure they are handled correctly and safely. Using a single rope on a multi-pitch route allows us to feel more comfortable and secure, especially if we come from a sport-climbing background and already have solid experience on single-pitch routes. Additionally, we’ll feel confident using the belay device we’re already familiar with, such as the GriGri.
On the downside, choosing a single rope for a multi-pitch route should always be done with extensive knowledge of the type of route you will be facing.
Firstly, consider the descent: if the route involves descending on foot, this can support the choice of a single rope. With a single rope, however, you must be familiar with specific techniques for rappelling, which should only be performed in an emergency, and you must be sure of the rope length required for this type of descent. The same considerations apply to possible escape routes and the gear needed.
The second point to consider is protection: single ropes exert a much heavier load in the event of a fall compared to half ropes. This means that the protection will undergo much stronger stress, which can be considered almost “irrelevant” when climbing a new multi-pitch route equipped with bolts (perfect for sport routes), but becomes increasingly dangerous when relying on trad protection or old pitons.
The final point to consider is the type of rock: if you are on very jagged terrain with sharp rock, the choice of using a single rope can prove very dangerous. Lastly, remember that single ropes have less elasticity compared to half ropes, and for this reason, you must be confident in your ability to provide a dynamic catch for your partner, even though it is always good practice to avoid taking falls on protectable mountain routes.
© Samuel Bié SCARPA
Half Ropes
Half ropes often represent a compromise between the diameter and weight of single ropes and twin ropes. They must always be used in pairs with another half rope of the same type and offer numerous advantages: being much more elastic than single ropes, they allow for safer climbing, even with trad gear or older pitons. Single ropes have a higher impact force, which means they place less stress on the protection that “supports” our fall. Additionally, half ropes are very useful when rappelling, as tying them together allows for longer descents.
When using half ropes, they should be clipped alternately. This helps keep the ropes straight and parallel, reducing the likelihood of creating angles and preventing the ropes from rubbing against each other. You can also double them up to achieve a level of security comparable to that of a single rope.
Using half ropes also allows for climbing a route with a party of three, a possibility not available when using a single rope or twin ropes.
However, alternating the clipping means that each fall impacts only one rope, increasing the likelihood of damage in case of a “hard fall.” In any extreme case where it is not advisable to continue using one of the ropes due to damage, you can always rely on the other half rope for progression.
©Drew Smith Patagonia
Twin Ropes
Twin ropes are the thinnest type of rope, typically ranging between 7 and 8 mm in diameter. Unlike half ropes, they must always be used together. By clipping both ropes through the same piece of protection, you achieve a level of security comparable to that of a single rope. This makes twin ropes particularly suitable for routes with solid bolts or stable protection.
Twin ropes cannot be used individually (in case one of the ropes wears out), but they can be tied together if you need to perform long rappels.
Sources: Dolomite Guides, Petzl
The information contained in this article is simply a guideline: before starting to climb, it is important to be guided in learning basic manoeuvres by qualified experts. Furthermore, the article does not claim to be exhaustive regarding the correct functioning of the equipment illustrated, so please refer to the user manuals.
