How to choose your first via ferrata set

Via ferratas are equipped routes on overhanging or vertical walls; they are characterized by steel cables, to which the mountaineer secures himself throughout the route using the carabiners of his via ferrata set. The set is also equipped with an energy absorber that will take up kinetic energy in the event of a fall, ensuring maximum safety.

Depending on the type of difficulty of the route, steel steps, ladders or other types of hand and foot anchors may be present in addition to the metal cable; otherwise, the natural rock conformations will be used for the ascent. Via ferratas can be of moderate difficulty, thus suitable for the whole family, or very exposed, for which it is better to have already gained a good experience.

Via ferrata sets represent the indispensable equipment for every kind of ferrata progression.

Memorable emotions on enchanting via ferratas. Photo by Dominic Schneider, Edelrid

What Via Ferrata set are equipped with

Via ferrata equipment has evolved over the years, with new certifications and materials more suited to the use required; in fact, this type of activity involves fall factors and therefore risks that are very different from a simple sport climbing route.

If the via ferrata is your first foray into the world of climbing, it may be advisable to buy a complete kit, including harness and helmet; if you already have some of the equipment, it may be sufficient to choose one of our via ferrata sets.

The via ferrata set that you attach to your harness consists of two elastic lanyards that end in a carabiner, an energy absorber and a loop that you use to attach the set to your harness with a larksfoot knot. The different materials and details of the various sets are designed to meet different needs, so let's take a closer look at them.

So much fun on the rock! Photo by Dominic Schneider, Edelrid

Via ferrata carabiners

Via ferrata sets are made with two elastic lanyards ending in a carabiner specifically done for this activity. They are our link with the steel cable: their alternate attachment and release allows us to be anchored to the cable at all times during the ascent, never loosing our protection point. Via ferrata carabiners must be particularly safe in terms of involuntary opening of the lever, but also manageable and ergonomic so that we can clip and unclip them smoothly.

There are mainly two types of gates used for these carabiners: automatic two-movements or twin-gate. In the first case, a double movement of the hand is required to unlock the carabiner's lever: you generally have to push and open the lever (which will automatically come back in the locking position when you release it). The twin-gate carabiner, also known as the K-type, is activated by simultaneously pushing both the front and rear levers inwards. When the levers are released, the carabiner closes again automatically. The latter are the most specific for via ferratas, allowing a smoother progression thanks to the quicker hooking and unhooking movements and with a few more safety points in the event of a side impact.

Both systems are designed to be used with one hand, even when wearing gloves. Unlike normal climbing carabiners, via ferrata carabiners are wider, with a very wide opening to allow smooth manoeuvring even with large diameter cables, and with a particularly ergonomic design. The via ferrata carabiners are also equipped with a catch-free closure, which prevents accidental snagging during use.

The unbelievable environment of via ferratas at altitudes. Photo by Dominic Schneider, Edelrid

The energy absorbers

A crucial element of via ferrata equipment, the energy absorber is the device responsible for absorbing as much energy as possible in the event of a fall, thus preventing trauma and injury to the climber. Until a few years ago, two types of energy absorbers were used: the plate absorber, which works by friction, and the textile absorber, which works by progressive tearing.

Today, the friction plate has been almost completely replaced by the textile absorber, which is lighter, easier to inspect and with excellent shock-absorbing capabilities thanks to the complete tearing of the webbing seams. This energy absorption system ensures a gradual braking of the fall with a low impact force on the hiker.

Lanyards and swivel

Most via ferrata sets are now made with an integrated swivel, whose main function is to prevent the elastic arms from twisting during the ascent. Not all sets are equipped with this, but it is a highly functional element that can make your progression incredibly more enjoyable. Retractable lanyards can be made with elastic or fixed webbing: the former have the undisputed advantage of lengthening and shortening following the natural movement of the hiker. Since the webbing is always under tension, it avoids snags and involuntary hooks in the rock or at various anchorage points.

Progression in safety with Edelrid equipment. Foto di Dominic Schneider

Complete via ferrata kits

If the via ferrata set is dedicated to this type of activity, the harness and helmet can be more versatile, perhaps for use on via ferratas and other activities such as sport climbing. When choosing a via ferrata harness, there are two main priorities: adjustable leg loops and comfort.

Adjustable leg loops allow us to perfectly adjust the fit of the harness, which contributes to the feeling of comfort that makes our climb more enjoyable. Other factors to consider when it comes to comfort are the mesh inserts and expanded EVA padding on the harness and leg loops. Many brands have incorporated technologies into their harness construction that help to optimise weight distribution and avoid the feeling of fatigue in the most stressed areas, which can make climbing less enjoyable.

As for the helmet, we can opt for a classic sports climbing model with top and side protection to protect us from side and top impacts. For summer climbing, a light, breathable helmet with large ventilation openings is a must. Again, comfort and a good fit will be appreciated, especially on very long hikes.

Via ferrata gloves

Often considered an ‘optional extra’, via ferrata gloves are a great help during progression because they allow us to protect our fingers and hands in contact with steel cables. They are available with half or full fingers and are also often used as safety gloves at crags. These gloves have an excellent grip and very high sensitivity, a crucial factor for performing all manoeuvres with maximum control. Durable and long-lasting, they will become your number one ally in many vertical situations, allowing you to avoid ruining the skin on your hands in all those moments when it is not in direct contact with the rock.

Discover all our via ferrata sets or complete kits at Oliunìd.