Arco has been (and still is) one of the most iconic areas for Italian sports climbing both for its endless number of crags and its renowned climbing stadium where many international competitions take place, like the most recent European Lead Cup.
Many climbers travel to Arco to enjoy their holidays and discover both new and historic crags scattered around the area. Depending on the exposure and your mood, you can find yourself climbing on a wall overlooking the lake or immersed in nature.
We picked ten crags where you can climb easy-to-intermediate pitches. In this article, you will find historic crags, well known for their “polished” holds, as well as newly bolted sectors on grippy and intact rock formations.
To make sure you don’t run out of fuel, here are some tips on where to have the best breakfast, aperitivo, and sandwiches! Local climbers have breakfast at Alle Tre Rose café for its delicious and generous pastries. If you would like to celebrate your newly conquered project, you can go to Sottotetto Urban Space for a relaxing drink in a quiet, yet central area. If you are driving towards Sarche, make sure to grab one of Lunelli’s delicious sandwiches!
The unparalleled view of Lake Garda, photo by Roni Andres
But back to climbing, shall we?
Regina del Lago
If you’d like to climb routes that are not only easy but also overlook beautiful panoramic views, the crag Regina del Lago is what you are looking for. The approach is not the most intuitive, but with the help of Versante Sud or Vertical Life’s guidebooks, you will easily find the right path! The beautiful limestone conformations offer a variety of pitches on slabs and vertical walls filled with crimps and pockets. On average, you can find pitches ranging between 5c and 6a, but there are plenty of choices also for the experienced climber and the absolute beginner. The walls face mainly south, meaning this crag is not ideal on hot summer days. Wearing a helmet is highly recommended.
Massone, Sector A
Massone is one of the most famous crags of Italy, loved by locals, Italian, and foreign climbers alike! This crag is particularly appreciated for its relaxing surroundings among olive orchards, its refreshing breeze that allows climbing even on hotter days, and the short approach— meaning also it may be very crowded, especially during the weekend or high season. The beauty of its pitches makes it all worth it though! Sector A is particularly suitable for those who are new to outdoor climbing. The pitches are well bolted on slabs with pockets, crimps, and jugs. During the summer, it’s best to visit this crag in the afternoon when the walls are no longer under direct sunlight.
Gerhard Horhager climbing with SCARPA Furia Air in Hotel Olivo sector. Credits to Tristan Hobson, SCARPA
Muro dell’Asino
Muro dell’Asino, just like Massone, provides a picnic area making it the ideal crag for families with kids who would like to enjoy a fun day outdoors. The first sector is perfect for beginners and kids: the pitches are easy and well bolted, and those who are moving their first steps on the rocks will surely have a good time, in a relaxing and safe environment. The second sector offers a larger choice, especially if you climb between 5c and 6b routes. Even on easier grades, you’ll be surprised to find some very interesting moves. You can find super short ten-meter pitches, but also longer, endurance 30-meter ones. The large variety of lengths allows everyone to try their preferred climbing style! The walls face west, making this a good option also for summer afternoons.
Giardino at Gole di Toblino
This crag faces north and it’s possible to climb here all year long— even though we would recommend going in the early morning during the summer. The crag is located in a sort of canyon, its walls surrounded by refreshing lush vegetation. The climbing style is varied and fun, but quite technical. Good finger technique is required. The pitches are not too long, ranging all between 14 and 20 meters. This is definitely a classic destination where you have the opportunity to climb some of the most historic pitches in the area.
Crosano
Slightly moving away from Arco, you can find the crag of Crosano. Its south exposure makes it a great go-to in winter and it’s especially appreciated by beginners thanks to its pitches grading from 4c. Climbing here on colder days helps improve the grip, as the holds are quite worn out by the numerous visitors. This crag is equipped with a neat picnic area and is surrounded by flourishing vegetation.
Massi delle Traole – Nago
Massi delle Traole is known as a “family crag” and is perfect for beginners with its easy pitches up to 6a and its refreshing and shaded location. The short approach, the bolting style, and the perfect grip make this crag a preferred destination for families with kids. During high season, it might be challenging to find a parking spot at the parking area mentioned in guidebooks. The pitches are set on a series of high limestone boulders, hence they are generally quite short, with the exception of the Star Wars sector. This is the perfect destination if you’re looking for a cool climbing day with your family!
Piazzole
This is a beautiful winter crag that offers wonderful views of lake Garda. Its location, overlooking the valley, requires a longer walking time if compared to the average approach length in the Arco area. Reaching this crag takes approximately 30 minutes. The rock is perfect and still has great grip. Grades range from 5b to 7b and the pitches face southeast. We recommend visiting this crag in spring or fall.
Massone, one of the most frequented by climbers of all ages.
Orto
Orto is an amazing crag facing northeast divided into two sectors. The pitches develop on slabs and the rock formation is very compact, offering good grip. You can climb here even during the summer, as it’s immersed in a quiet forest. It’s great if you’re looking for a break from the heat and traffic of busy days. The easiest pitches grade between 5b and 5c, there are about 10 of them. The routes are set on solid rock, mainly on slabs. Perfect if you’d like to practice your technique!
Falesia Dimenticata (San Lorenzo in Banale)
This beautiful crag has not been accessible for years, as it sits on private land. Thanks to its recent acquisition by Dolomiti Open, it is now open to the public and it comprises all the features that make it a preferred destination for all. With its green grass, the short approach (approximately 15 minutes), the quiet, the peace, and its clean restrooms it’s hard not to love this crag! The pitches have been fully restored and rebolted. The pitches are set on conglomerate with pockets, they are up to 20 meters high and face south. There are some 5c options, but there is definitely more choice between grades 6b+ and 6c+.
Massi di Prabi
Last but not least, Massi di Prabi is a wonderful crag to enjoy a climbing day in the shade of the forest at the foot of mount Colodri. This is a fun crag, particularly appreciated by climbing instructors with their pupils, and families on hot summer days. The pitches, up to 16 meters high, face north and are set on exceptionally compact limestone big boulders. Good technique and footwork are essential to reach the top of these fun, yet quite polished, slabs. The bolts and anchors have been recently replaced, making this a great destination for those who are still working on their confidence on the walls. With grades varying between 3c and 7a, this crag has it all!
Belvedere sector: a name, a certainty.
Some of these crags are set on private land: please make sure you respect the environment and other climbers. We recommend wearing a helmet, especially when finding rockfall warning signs. Refer to local guidebooks for up-to-date, detailed information.
Cover picture by Roni Andres