There are as many possibilities in sport climbing as there are rock types, difficulty levels, route lengths, and climbing styles. Therefore, when we say "sport climbing shoes", we include within this macro-family an infinite number of different uses and related needs.
In this selection of sport climbing shoes that we recommend for 2023, we have chosen five manufacturers that we could define as "niche" manufacturers: from the high performance 5.10 and Unparallel, rightly considered shoes for "pro" climbers, to Wild Climb, Tenaya and the increasingly popular Evolv. Join us to learn more about these models.
5.10 Niad Lace
Vertical walls, small footholds, cracks, and technical climbing: these are the main situations in which Five Ten's Niad Lace expresses the best of its characteristics. The “typical” climber for whom they are intended is not only comfortable on vertical walls, but is also a true expert on slabs and slightly overhanging walls, even multi-pitch walls. No wonder that the name of these shoes comes from the acronym for “Nose in a day,” and it immediately makes us think of endless smooth walls all to be deciphered and climbed with the utmost concentration.
Their structure is therefore rigid, with a full sole that is stiff enough as to give you support, edge, and confidence even in the most precarious situations! Like most of the shoes also dedicated to long routes and Big Wall, the Niad also has a shape that is not overly arched and asymmetrical, so you can wear them with extreme comfort even for several hours. Despite their not-too-aggressive shape, the Niads also have an extra edge when it comes to grip on the rock both in “shoveling” on smooth walls and in what is called in English “edging,” that is, the ability to concentrate all the pressure on the front of the toe. The rubber insert applied over the front part of the shoes also makes it very effective for crack climbing.
5.10 Aleon VCS
We stay with the Five Ten brand but shift the focus from slab climbing to more pronounced overhangs thanks to the Aleon VCS. Created in collaboration with Fred Nicole, the Aleon combines the needs of both crag and outdoor bouldering by answering a common need: maximum reliability when hooking up in the typical conformations of overhangs.overhangs. With this in mind, the Aleon's super wrap-around heel was created, the real strength of these high difficulty shoes. Other aspects where a lot of work has been done to achieve a high-end product are the tension and the structure of the front part of the liner, which is particularly concave.
The comfort and fit of the new Five Ten climbing shoes have been improved over the first models such as the Team and Blackwing: thanks to the use of the innovative Adidas Primeknit material, the Aleon is now comfortable, snug and very quick to put on and take off. The upper is made of microfiber, so it won't break down over time, while the sole is made of Stealth C4 material, which is a trademark for anyone used to climbing with Five Ten: grip is guaranteed!
Unparallel Regulus
Unparallel's Regulus are also super performance climbing shoes that can give you absolute precision on overhang and slab! When we mentioned Five Ten's famous Teams and Blacwing earlier, Five Ten's Regulus were immediately hailed as the union of the Hiangle and the Teams. Compared to the Hiangle, however, they change the fit, as the Regulus fit well on a narrower sole and especially the shape of the heel.
The synthetic upper with no lining is soft against the skin, but has the disadvantage of a rigid structure that makes putting on and taking off the shoes more cumbersome. On the other hand, it provides a long-lasting fit without stretching too much with use.
Its super aggressive shape and high stiffness make it exceptional for precision, grip, and support on even the smallest of footholds! Plus, thanks to the extended rubber over the toes, toe hooks will be incredible! The Regulus is the ideal shoe for anyone who loves to climb using heel and toe hooks!
Evolv Phantom
The Evolv Phantom was also created for high overhang performance and to meet the needs of a vegan-friendly audience. Among the models we present today, this is probably the most technical, suitable for both bouldering and sport climbing, with a preference for the most overhanging panels. The feature that makes them "unique" is the use of a rubber whose thickness varies according to the point of the shoe: more pronounced in the areas of greatest wear, thinner in the points where we need sensitivity.
In addition, the experience of Daniel Woods, who collaborated on the design of this model, led to the use of a double midsole, which makes this climbing shoe brilliant. The first one is placed in the front part of the shoe, with a thickness that decreases as you approach the area under the toes and has a discontinuity at the level of the big toe: this way you have total support and maximum sensitivity on the smallest supports.
The picture of this exceptional shoe is completed by the second midsole, which works in synergy with the TPS tension system. Both help to give the shoe an arched, aggressive shape that allows you to stay hooked in all situations, concentrate all your power in the toe area and express maximum precision. The combination of synthetics and these technologies ensures that the shoe retains its shape and characteristics for a long time.
Tenaya Iati
Tenaya's Iati, unlike the Aleon and Phantom, which we can safely see on the feet of boulderers, is a climbing shoe with a more specific use for sport climbing. Their shape has a very pronounced curvature and asymmetry, features that are always appreciated by the most demanding climbers.
The Iati can be considered an evolution of the Oasis, although it has not completely replaced it, from which it takes the RBRX technology and the patented Draxtor Velcro lacing system. The result is an absolute fit of the shoe to the different positions required on the rock, as well as a comfortable and precise wrapping of the shoe around the foot, earning it the label "it fits like a glove".
Innovative, super-thin synthetic materials were used in these shoes, combined in a super-comfortable tubular construction. The heel played a key role in the design of these shoes and can only give us the best feeling of fit and reliability.
Tenaya Oasi
Tenaya's Oases were born with the very specific idea of bringing a new product to the market, combining the precision of slab climbing with the softness required by the most overhanging walls. To achieve this, the creators of the Oasis combined the best technologies, such as the SXR Dynamics “in motion fit,” which ensures a ready responsiveness of the shoes on different types of rock, adapting to the different angles it has to take each time. The SXR Dynamics is synergistically joined by the RBRX, which makes every movement stable and optimizes the best possible performance, expanding the choice of terrains on which to use them, always achieving excellent results.
The Patented Draxtor Velcro closure allows you to wrap them around your foot by adjusting all internal volumes to perfection thanks to a combination of Velcro and laces; you can thus adjust the internal pressure with extreme precision. The result is an exceptional, comfortable and particularly multipurpose climbing shoes.
Wild Climb Pantera 2.0
They are Laura Rogora's favorite shoes, characterized by an aggressive shape in the toe and last that makes them high performance yet very comfortable to wear. We're talking about Wild Climb's Pantera 2.0, the lace-up shoe that gave birth to the entire Pantera family, and now gets a makeover with a brand new graphic design and bright colors.
The Pantera 2.0 is made of synthetic microfiber, a material that combines elasticity, breathability and durability in one product. In addition, both the upper material (Wildclimb Microfiber) and the dyes and adhesives are vegan friendly and made entirely in Italy! Pantera's support the foot especially in vertical and slightly overhanging slabs thanks to the full sole and the tension that avoids unnecessary twisting of the foot in more technical movements. A must-have for those who love technical routes on slabs.
