Alpine Studio Eiger La direttissima climbing novel

Alpine Studio Eiger La direttissima is a climbing novel that tells the tragedy of the north face of the Eiger in 1966. This face was known for decades as the most dangerous climb in the Alps and caused the deaths of many climbers. In February 1966, two teams, one German and the other Anglo/American, aimed to climb it via a new route, a direct ascent. Upon reaching the base of the wall, the two teams knew almost nothing of each other's attempts.

John Harlin led the Anglo/American team, consisting of four people, and intended to make an ascent in alpine style in good weather. The Germans, on the other hand, with a team of eight men, had planned an unrelenting ascent in Himalayan style, regardless of the weather conditions.

Eiger Direct, first published in 1966, is the story of risks and unwavering endurance, with climbers facing storms, frostbite, and ultimately the great tragedy: the disappearance of John Harlin.

The authors of the book were the main protagonists as the dramatic events unfolded. The award-winning writer Peter Gillman was the correspondent for the "Telegraph," and lived closely with the climbers, communicating with them via radio and observing them. Dougal Haston, on the other hand, was a member of Harlin's team, a great climber who opened the way on many key passages of the wall during the storm.