Gorges du Verdon represent a fixed stop for anyone who loves climbing, but also a "must" for fans of other sports such as canyoning, kayaking or paragliding. The incredible landscape astonishes hikers and tourists and leaves speechless anyone who knows what "aerial climbing" means. The crazy limestone walls worked by the water and the wind have been the playing field of the history of sport and traditional climbing from the '60s onwards: here, in fact, the greatest climbers of those years have ventured, establishing turning points in the use of materials and opening routes that are - still today - considered "demanding".
Gorges du Verdon: exposure and adrenaline
If you are not perfectly at ease with aerial exposure, climbing at the Gorges du Verdon can be a frightening experience: just looking down from the viewpoints of the Route des Cretes gives you an idea of how much you will be at the mercy of the void. Knowing that this is the starting point for most routes, the base of which can be reached by daring abseils, can also perplex a climber with great experience and strong nerves. But fear not: the Verdon also offers many single-pitch crags accessible by easy paths.
The walls that form the Gorges of the Verdon offer many different crags with a more standard "climbing routine": first you climb from the ground and then you lower down to the base. Choosing to climb on single-pitch cliffs does not necessarily have to be seen as an "Option B", but a possibility that meets the abilities of climbers not at ease with belay, descent and recovery maneuvers. In such challenging terrain as Verdon, it is good not to improvise in climbs of multi-pitch routes from which you can come out only climbing.
Verdon crags: type of rock and best seasons
They can also be considered for a sort of "adaptation" to the rock and the environment of Verdon in consideration of more challenging climbs. The rock is exceptional, worked with drops, holes or reeds on vertical or overhanging walls; the routes here are bolted in a "sporting" manner, that is without particular run out, and the lengths of the routes vary from crag to crag. The exposure is very often southward or in the sun in the afternoon, which makes these cliffs particularly pleasant in autumn, while the summer can be incredibly hot. Spring as always can be an unknown for rainy roads.
The main sport climbing sectors in Verdon
So you can also easily do some sport climbing in Verdon, even on routes of a single length! Here are the main sites: Col d'Ayen, Félines, La école buissonnière, Chasteuil, the Valaute crag or the Vallon d'Estay... beautiful walls to get started in this area and to take confidence with the rock or just for those climbers who are not fond of long routes.
Col d'Ayen is famous for its single pitches (20 meters maximum) and vertical or slab routes that can vary from 5b to 6b. The routes are well-equipped, interesting and varied. Here you will appreciate the view of the Gorges and the quality of the rock. For more accurate information and access, we leave you this link.
Three crags with intermediate difficulty levels have recently been equipped: Chalanettes, Le Galetas and CAF above Mechelen. On these sectors of about ten routes each, the difficulty stretches from 4c to 6b and therefore they are ideal areas for a beginner level. Those who want to climb a beautiful, well-known and not too hard route can try Adieu Zidane at Galetas: beautiful rock, well equipped and with a crazy abseil (attention: strong emotions!).
Most of these crags are located on the west side of the Gorges, near La Palud or Lac de St Croix: you can find more information on the guide France- Cote d'Azur or on Verdon, Rive Gauche. The reference for staying is generally La Palud, where you can find various gîtes and a campsite for your stay; the little village is very touristy with small bars and a few restaurants to worthily celebrate your successes on the rock.
Climbing on Verdon's Big Walls
For those who would like to start climbing on the most characteristic routes of the Verdon, there also are renowned routes with difficulty levels more accessible to everyone. Here are some examples:
L'arête de la patte de chèvre at the Félines pass. Opened at the end of 2012 this beautiful easy route is located at the crag dell'Aigle: seven well-equipped lengths and quoted between 4c and 5b+, 150 meters of total development on a well-sculpted rock with good grip, ideal to approach the world of long streets and finally enjoy a view of Lake Sainte-Croix. In addition, unlike many long routes, it is not necessary to abseil, as a path allows you to return to the valley. As it usually is very crowded, we recommend arriving early in the morning!
L'usage du monde in Mainmorte. A route with a medium length that counts five pitches and represents an excellent start to the world of multi-pitch routes. The environment is one of the wildest of the Gorges, with a lot of drops and crimps!
Bwana Malin in Middle Eycharme. This route is characterized by a very interesting ratio of length and height: only 50 meters for four magnificent pitches around 5c. The rock is particularly well-worked, and you can reach the start of the route by abseiling; it is ideal in the afternoons of hot summer days as it passes in the shade.
La demande all'Escalès: the Verdon crack. With its 350m of climbing La demande is the longest route in Verdon. It is not to be considered a real easy way: on the contrary, it is a long adventure of resistance. Opened in 1968, it is a very famous route of the Gorges and still today it represents a great classic climbing in this area. Here you can find all the characteristic elements of historical climbing: cracks, chimneys, gear for alpine climbing is required, etc... It is not a route suitable for beginners, as the sixth grade is sustained over the entire length, and the protections are quite far in some passages. The mastery of climbing techniques such as dulfer, typical of chimneys, is highly recommended.
Don’t forget to check the weather conditions and difficulty levels before climbing. Also, make sure you have all the necessary equipment and master the main techniques related to long routes: alternatively we recommend that you tackle climbing in Verdon together with a professional guide, especially if you are new to the subject. Some routes can be difficult and we strongly recommend that you be accompanied by an experienced guide to climb them safely.
All photos by Samuel Blè, Professional Shooting with Nina Caprez, SCARPA
