"Intermediate" climbing shoes perform well in so many vertical situations that we can consider them the most popular ever. There is no "reference-grade" to be climbed on sight or redpointed to decide that it is time to switch to this type of shoe after an initial period with beginner models.
Rather, what matters, and what can give us an idea of the potential role of these shoes in our climbing lives, are the years of experience we have gained on the rock or in the gym grinding out (vertical) miles with beginner shoes on our feet and having already developed a fair amount of specific foot musculature.
So, how are they different?
The number one factor that generates a lot of doubts among climbers who have to replace their shoes - and who do not know whether to remain very faithful to the beginner model they have already experienced or to make a leap to the "next level" - is not knowing exactly what changes.
We are often led to think - partly because of the “painful” clichés about climbing shoes - that intermediate shoes are mostly narrower.
When we talk about intermediate climbing shoes, we generally refer to their level of aggressiveness, which is determined by asymmetry, slight downturn, medium stiffness sole, and more precision at the toe. But let's start at the beginning.
SCARPA Quantic, photo Hugo Vincent SCARPA
Differences with beginner climbing shoes
Beginner shoes are designed to support the climber's weight on footholds when the muscles of the feet are not structured around this new "task" yet. The sole is therefore stiff – to partly make up for the task of holding the toe in place on the foothold -and the shape is mostly neutral, almost similar to that of ordinary shoes.
In the intermediate shoes, the sole is a bit softer, somewhat lettingclimber know what a good sensitivity is. We are not talking about the half-sole of super-experienced climbers' shoes yet, but about a comfortable middle way for those who have already developed the muscles that allow us to stay on our toes without cramping for as long as we can.
The shape is no longer the neutral and symmetrical one of beginner shoes: the front will begin to be slightly asymmetrical, and the shape of the sole slightly downturned. These features are meant to unleash more strength on the front part of the foot, as the routes or boulders we will try will increasingly test us with a more precise and technical climbing style.
It is up to us to decline these general characteristics according to the variants that depend on the shape of our foot: therefore choosing a narrow or wide sole depending on our morphology, going for materials that soften over time (such as leather) or others that maintain their characteristics and finally moving towards a closure on which we can have more or less margin of control (laces vs velcro or slippers).
Best intermediate climbing shoes
And how can we translate all this information into practice? We want now point you to five of the best-sellers intermediate models.
Cobras are iconic climbing shoes, born at least fifteen years ago and, since then, always unmissable in every climbing gym. They are indispensable allies of long training evenings in the gym, immediately recognizable by their garish orange color. Over time they have evolved with new materials and colors, but they have retained the characteristics that made them so famous.
First and foremost, they are slippers, a type of climbing shoes that is perhaps less in vogue now than it was a few years ago, although they have the undisputed advantage of being very quick to put on and off at the speed of light, without having to tergiverize in painstaking lacing.
The full sole is well balanced by Vibram XS Grip2, the softest compound of all those used in climbing, and a soft and incredibly comfortable leather upper. It is, of course, especially appreciated by boulderers. It is a great "transition" model, especially for those who want to experiment with new, somewhat less stiff, climbing shoes for their indoor workouts.
Quantic are climbing shoes with a still fairly neutral sole shape and only a slightly arched toe. They are available in men's or women's versions, also in the new Single Frame model: a one-piece structure without interruptions, which adapts perfectly to the dynamics of your foot movements. You will thus have excellent precision in all conditions, also allowing better power transmission when pushing on big volumes.
Here we have a double cross velcro closure, microfiber upper and Vibram XS Edge sole: a combination of materials that is synonymous with very high durability over time! The Quantic are designed to offer you great comfort combined with exceptional performance on every terrain: you can use them at teh crag, in the gym, on boulders or on multi-pitch routes with great sensations!
Vapor Laces WMN - photo by Sam Bié, SCARPA
SCARPA Vapor (laces/velcro)
Among all the climbing shoes here listed, Vapor probably represent the most versatile model, appreciated also by top climbers who have to deal with multi-pitch routes, demanding slabs and very technical and climbing style. Not for nothing they carry the name of Cedric Lachat, but we also saw them at the feet of Arnaud Petit and the very strong Jenya Kazbekova.
The Vapor are available in the lace-up or velcro version and benefit from the Bi-Tension technology that ensures precision and excellent foot support. The upper is in microfiber with a suede part and it is realized with seams designed to minimize the pressure points on the toe: an absolute comfort that allows you to use them in the longest days on the wall!
Oasi di Tenaya are comfortable cotton shoes with TXT treatment and a narrow plant, suitable for both crags and indoor climbing. The peculiarity of these shoes lies in the hybrid closure between Velcro and laces (Patented Draxtor Velcro): you can fit the Velcro in single or double version, having total control over the adjustment of the interior volumes. In addition to this, you can also adjust the laces in length to maintain an optimal internal pressure.
The Oasi represent medium downturned climbing shoes, precise on the supports in slabs and sensitive when climbing on big volumes; they are more suitable to those who prefer bouldering. They have an extra gear that already brings them to a "pro" level: a curiosity about these shoes? Ethan Pringle also used them for the second ascent of Jumbo Love, 9b.
Timeless 5.10 Grandstone
With these shoes Five Ten offers us a model suitable for trad and crack climbing, but also for long routes. Their peculiarity is in fact is in the upper that also wraps around the top of the foot, protecting it from the sharp edges of the rock.
In addition, the lacing system allows a very precise adjustment and protects the laces in the toe area, increasing their duration. The upper is made of lined microfiber which, in combination with the durable and super gripping outsole Stealth C4, guarantess you to have a durable and sticky shoe.
Cover image by Esteban Lahoz, SCARPA
